Honey Strainer

A great top bar hive honey strainer.

The Idea

Honey comb suitable for straining.

It’s easy to build a simple strainer that uses gravity to separate honey from beeswax. It consists of:

  • a bucket lid.
  • a 5 gallon elastic nylon paint strainer bag.
  • a small wood block.
  • a bucket with holes drilled in the bottom.
  • a bucket with a large hole cut in its middle
  • other buckets to contain and store the strained honey.

Honey comb mash is poured inside the strainer. And strained honey drains into the bottom bucket. It’s:

  • effective.
  • cheap.
  • easy.
  • almost labor free.

The Details

Get some buckets

It’s important that they:

  • are food grade.
  • are the same type.
  • nest.
  • stack.
  • have removable lids.

The 5 gallon plastic buckets, commonly used to store honey, are a great choice. But they are heavy when full of honey.

Four gallon icing buckets weigh less when full and can usually be obtained from bakeries for free. But you’ll need more of them.

Get enough buckets to:

  • store your honey.
  • store strained comb.
  • make a strainer.

Can a beekeeper have too many buckets? :-)


Some volume facts:

  • a full shallow super fills a standard four gallon icing bucket with comb mash.
  • about 3/4ths of a bucket of honey drains from a full bucket of honey mash.

Mix or Match

Different sized buckets can be used if they are stackable. But using different sizes requires closer monitoring as overflows can occur.

Build It

Tbh honey strainer parts.

To build the strainer:

  • cut a large hole in one bucket lid. The diameter should be a couple of inches smaller than the bottom of the strainer bucket.
  • drill lots of 3/4″ holes in the bottom the strainer bucket.
  • drill a few 3/4″ holes around the strainer bucket’s top edge. They should be close enough to the top that the paint strainer bag will cover them when draped over the top edge of the bucket.

Assemble It

Assembled tbh honey strainer without the paint strainer bag.

To assemble the strainer:

  • set down an empty, clean bucket. It will contain the strained honey.
  • put the lid with the large hole on top of the honey container bucket.
  • set the strainer bucket on top of the lid.
  • place the wood block in the strainer bucket.
  • hang a nylon paint strainer bag inside the strainer bucket.
  • loosely set a bucket lid on top of the strainer bucket.

That’s it. You’ve built a tbh honey strainer.

Use It

Harvest the Comb

Needs some ideas on how and when to harvest? Check out my Harvest page.

The bees are brushed off harvested comb. And clean, pollen free comb is cut into an bucket. Don’t fill any bucket more than 3/4ths full.

If a comb contains pollen, mashing it liberates the pollen.That’s not a problem when only a small amount of pollen is stored in the comb. But if there’s lots of stored pollen, liberating it can drastically alter the honey’s taste and smell. Not a bad thing if you like it. Not so great if you don’t.

Maybe such honey could be filtered a second time with a very fine nylon filter, like those commercial beekeepers use to final filter their honey before bottling. It should remove most of the pollen. But I haven’t tried it.

Pollen filled combs are probably best left on the hive for the bees.

Mash It

Comb is easily mashed to a pulp when it’s still warm from the field. So, as soon as possible, mash up the comb inside the bucket. A 3 foot wooden 1 x 2 stick works great.

Strain It

Pour the honey comb pulp into the strainer bag.

If the field bucket is the same size as the strainer bucket, it can be be inverted on the strainer and left to drain out overnight. Then remove the field bucket and cover the strainer with a lid.

Store It

Strained honey.

After straining, you’re left with raw, very flavorful honey. When using a conventional extractor,  many of those flavors and smells are fanned into air. But very little is lost when honey is strained. It tastes like comb honey without the wax.


To clean up:

  • fill the empty buckets with water.
  • place the paint filter in the bottom of one of the buckets.
  • come back a day later.
  • dump the buckets.
  • rinse them with a hose.

And you’re done. No big mess. No dirty kitchen. No big clean up. Pretty neat huh!



When the temperature stays above 80 degrees, you get ‘extracted honey’ fast. And it’s almost labor free!If the temps stay below 70 degrees, extracting is slooooow.

Straining honey works best during the summer’s heat. So, harvest often during the summer,  rather than a single harvest during the fall.


After a day of straining, gently lift the strainer bag a few inches. This lets the wax shift and speeds up the straining a little.


If your honey granulates fast, make sure you strain when the weather is hot and the straining is fast. Or your honey may granulate before it’s strained.

You may also like...

6 Responses

  1. Fud Rud Pucker says:

    VERY interesting! But I don’t trust ANYTHING plastic these days. Would have to be stainless, or ceramic. Yet ANOTHER thing for me to think about…

  2. Fred Wilson says:

    I do not have a hive as of yet. But I’m looking into getting one or two for the farm. I like the honey strainer idea but what is the small wood block for?

    • -dm says:

      Hi Fred

      The small wood block is placed between the bottom of the paint strainer bag and the plastic bucket. Without it, the strainer bag rests directly against the bottom of the plastic bucket. Wax collects directly above the holes in the bucket and quickly plugs up the strainer.

      The block increases the surface area that drains from the bottom of the strainer bag.

      Good luck with your beekeeping.


  3. Paul Geissler says:

    All good.

    I use a few pieces of poly cutting board in lieu of the wood block, smash it up with a drill driven paint mixer available in stainless steel, secure the strainer bag with clips before pouring and cover the buckets with a tall kitchen basket bag with tape to keep out visitors. I leave all gear and goo for girls to clean and reclaim. They return perfectly clean candle wax. Didn’t do the holes at the top edge.

    Time is your friend. This takes only a couple hours of activity from comb to jar. A month of settling makes for very clean raw honey.

  4. Hannah says:

    How would a pasta insert and stainless steal stock pot work? I like this idea a lot!!

    • -dm says:

      Hi Hannah

      I’ve never tried it for crush and strain. I did try a pasta insert as a coarse filter for a small hand cranked extractor. It was just too slow. But it might work great.

      Give it a try and let me know what happens.


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

4 + = seven

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>